LOCATION: Kanker Palace lies at the southern end of the Chattisgarh Plain, just before Keshkal Ghat which climbs up to the Bastar Plateau. Less than three hours by National Highway 43 from Raipur, the former princely state of Kanker (Kaan-Kair) is an ideal launch pad for visits to Bastar and some unusual surrounding countryside.  ACCOMMODATION: The late Maharajadhiraj Udai Pratap Deo's private residence can currently accommodate up to twelve guests in six suites on a sharing basis. All suites have western-style bathroom facilities. Guests have their own private sitting area, veranda and patio. A recreation room with pool table and a library are also available. A magnificent fan-cooled Trophy Room with comfortable sofas and armchairs leads to the Dining Room, where family members will be present for meals whenever possible. A high standard of local cooking with the finest produce from the Palace's own farms is maintained. Special diets can be catered with advance notice.
SEASON AND CLIMATE: The Kanker Palace season extends from October until April. Guests used to the particularly hot pre-monsoon climate are welcome at other times, though the monsoon months from mid-June to September are not recommended. COOL SEASON - November to February. Evening, night and early morning temperatures can vary between 4-12°C therefore good warm clothing is highly recommended. (The elevated Bastar Plateau at night can reach as low as 2°C.) Day temperatures typically rise to about 20°C so lighter apparel is advised for comfort. WARM SEASON - October, and March to June. In these months the weather is considerably warmer with temperatures easily reaching 30°C and even above 39°C in April-June during the day. The lightest articles of clothing are recommended but should still include a sweater, jacket or shawl for evening excursions. KANKER HISTORY
Apart from relaxation in the pleasant Palace grounds, Kanker offers a picturesque and historic town nestled in a band of the River Dudh, a tributary of the Mahanadi, writes Maharajadhiraj Aditya Pratap Deo, of the former ruling family. Today a District Headquarters with a population of some 30,000, Kanker boasts a royal heritage dating back to the 12th century CE. Rulers from its three dynasties, the Somvansh (1125-1344), Kandravansh (1344-97) and the Chandravansh (Moon Lineage - 1397-1948) saw themselves as patriarchs and oversaw a synthesis of cultures the legacy of which continues to give a distinct identity to Kanker.
In the late 18th century, Kanker came under the intermittent sway of the Bhonsle Marathas of Nagpur before being gradually integrated into the British Empire from the first quarter of the 19th century. A bandobast (proclamation) of 1865 determined its status as a 'feudatory state' and its rulers were conferred the title Maharajadhiraj and granted a personal salute of nine guns. Kanker was to be the only State of the Eastern States Union not to pay tribute.
Its last rulers, Narharideo (1853-1903), Komaldeo (1903-1925) and Bhanu Pratap Deo (1925-1969) were among the most enlightened and educated of their times, introducing exemplary reforms in government, agriculture, education and health, policies that facilitated a smooth transition to independence. Today the erstwhile ruling family (of the Chandravansh) continue to be respected by a town and tribal people proud of their long traditions.  KANKER TOWN AND ENVIRONS
Kanker is dotted with monuments from the previous two centuries. Narharideo built a string of temples stocked with local artefacts as a precaution against marauders; Ram-Janaki, Jagannath and Balaji Mandirs (temples) at the foot of the hills are notable. Komaldeo indulged his many Queens by adding to and refashioning the Old Palace Complex (now the Kattcheri or courthouse). Bhanu Pratap Deo constructed the Komaldeo Hospital and Crawford High School (now Narharideo School), two stately public buildings in the grand colonial style. The British Agent's Residence, Radhaniwas Bagicha, was also rebuilt and set in a garden in 1937. This elegant building is today the Kanker Palace, residence of the royal family.
Towering over river and town is the Qila Dongri or Kila Pahar (fort hill). A trek to the top takes you to a temple and its adjacent pool and caves, reputed to have magic qualities, and a breathtaking view of Kanker.
Local culture and festivals intermingle tribal and Hindu custom. The Marhai in January is a huge fair which begins with a procession of the local tribal deity, an anga in the form of a log god, with flag bearers and a royal blessing from the Maharajadhiraj who is its guardian. It then travels from village to village, at each point adding new flavour and energy to its celebration. Panchami in March marks the season of spring with gaiety and colours. In July the Jagannath Yatra, when the deity's chariot is drawn through the town, renews links with the famous Hindu tradition of Puri, in Orissa, from where the Kanker Chandravansh trace their origin.
A variety of dances reflect the joys of a simple yet vigorous rural people, including the Gedi, or Stilt Dance of the sowing season, the Raut Nauch (Cattle-Herders' Dance) famous throughout Chattisgarh, and the lilting Sua in which women dance in a circle around local totems.
Seventeen kms to the west of Kanker are the gushing rapids of Malanjkudum, point of origin of the River Dudh. This, and Mutte Khad, where a waterfall roars over a deep cave, are perfect picnic spots from where to imbibe the sounds and sensations of the tropical forest.
SITANADI WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Some thirty kilometres from Kanker is the reservoir of Dudhawa, where a toy-like rest house on a hill overlooks a vast expanse of water, the ideal setting for restful angling, bird-watching or an early picnic. Further to the north-east is the sal-forested Wildlife Sanctuary of Sitanadi, home to leopard, sambar, spotted deer, sloth bear, chowsingha, blue bull, wolf, hyena, barking deer, wild boar, peacock and birds of paradise among other denizens. The sanctuary is being prepared for tiger which are occasionally to be seen in the area. An old British Rest House sits atop the central hill around which spreads a dense forest. Dudhawa and Sitanadi make a fine day-trip from Kanker Palace in the knowledgeable company of the family's former hunting master-turned conservationist. KESHKAL & GARH GOBRAHIN
Just 38 km south of Kanker the National Highway starts to climb the sharp switchback corners of the beautiful Keshkal Ghat which leads up to the Bastar Plateau. Travellers stop halfway up at a small temple to offer puja to a local goddess for protection against wild beasts. A few kilometres into the interior from Keshkal, the first market town of Bastar, is the ancient religious and rich archaeological site of Garh Gobrahin with its mysterious shivling (phallic emblems associated with Lord Shiv), hinting at the many traditions of worship long followed in the deep Bastar forests. NORTH BASTAR
Continuing on NH43 south 87 kms from Kanker, just before the important town of Kondagaon with one of the biggest local markets, a single road turns west towards Narayanpur and the North Bastar interior. Three kms down this road at Kumharpara (Potters' Enclave) is the Saathi NGO project set up to sustain and encourage livelihoods in the traditional arts and crafts of Bastar, including terra-cotta, bell metal, wrought iron and wood carving. For details of the excellent work done by the project and its local artisans, go to our special Saathi pages.  An hour's drive farther west brings you to Narayanpur, the small urban centre of tribal North Bastar. This is the heart of the country of the so-called 'gotul' Muria, whose co-ed dormitory system (the gotul) open to all young people from the age of 9 or 10 until marriage in late teens, remains a unique social and educational experiment which undeniably encourages the Muria young to present themselves to each other and the world at their attractive and harmonious best. Near the road, the institution of the gotul is only a shadow of its strictly maintained former self, properly ruled exclusively by the young themselves, with no adult (married person) allowed in its sanctum in the night hours. Authentic gotul life still continues in interior villages less accessible to moralists and others who believe they should interfere with lifestyles not their own. Yet it is still possible to witness the dancing and singing skills and the intimate sense of community of the young Muria Koitor, honed over countless centuries of relative freedom from intrusion.
From Narayanpur a single narrow road winds towards the remote highland country of Abhujmar, home of the Hill Maria. A large weekly market is held at Chote Dongar which attracts some of these shy forest people, and an hour farther on is the Hill Maria centre of Orcha. Travel down these distant roads is not possible at all seasons. For regular updates on the road conditions of GreenGondwana, check our GreenGondwana Travel News.  Weekly markets (called Haat in Hindi, Atum in Gondi) provide the best opportunity for a glimpse of tribal life in close-up. In Bastar they can be found on every day of the week in different locations, many accessible from the main road. Bastar is also rich in Festivals associated with agriculture and local animistic religion, many involving the village and clan log gods and goddesses so special to this region. Narayanpur and other large centres have major fairs called Manday in Gondi or Marhai/Madai in Hindi, to which whole interior communities bring their deities for grand annual reunions. These fairs tend to fall in January and February in the slack agricultural season, though some are also held in March and April. Check GreenGondwana Travel News for updates.
For sample tours of North Bastar, check GreenGondwana's Personalised Exclusive Tours to and from Kanker Palace. For the possibilities of South Bastar, check out Bastar Royal Farm . Back to the Top Close this item |
